Muñeca Travels the Silk Road

Coming March 2020.
After a lot of introspection Muñeca has convinced Richard that an adventure across the Silk Road from Europe to Mongolia would be an extremely enjoyable jaunt.

With early planning now taking place and plenty of maintenance to the KTM 690 ( Moto Naranja ) it is hoped that the Silk Road will be ready to divulge some of its timeless secrets in March, 2020.

Cusco to Lima

Five up

I encountered this multi person transporter in a little village in the mountains of Peru. I counted at least five but there might have been more. The girl on the back did seem to be gripping her friend's shoulders for dear life as they took off up a dusty track

Cusco Main Square

After returning from Machu Picchu I spent a few days in the magnificent old Inca capital of Cusco. There are so many churches in the city as the Spanish, upon arrival, demolished all the Inca palaces and built churches on the foundations as a way of showing there dominance.

Two bull roof ornaments

Many houses have these two bulls adorning their roofs to protect against evil spirits

Beautiful carved wooden balconies

The houses of the nobility had carved wooden balconies

Sacred Valley

Here was the start of the Sacred Valley with the Urubamba River running through the middle

Colorful Pisac Market

The town of Pisac has an incredibly colorful market not only selling plenty of touristy stuff but plenty of food, fruit and vegetables as well. Traditional clothing mixed seamlessly with backpacker chic and less chic hippie matted hair.

Inca Ruins at Pisac

The ruins above the town were very impressive with stone citadels perched way above the valley floor and huge stone terraces where the Incas grew their crops

Moray Terraces

A few kilometers down the valley brings you to the stone terraces of Moray which is thought to have been an Inca agricultural experimental station where they studied the effects of different microclimates on their crops

Stonework at Ollantaytambo

Next up down the valley is the town of Ollantaytambo with what is probably the most impressive stonework I have seen anywhere in the world. These massive stone blocks were transported from a quarry on the other side of the valley, up a steep hillside, carved with laser like precision and assembled so that it is impossible to insert even a playing card between them. This is a mystery that has many theories but none of which seem entirely plausible

Sun Temple 

The Sun Temple is the most amazing example of this rock carving technique with expansion joints between the polished granite pieces that have withstood the ravages of time as well as numerous earthquakes without having moved a millimeter 

Carved Lock Piece

Seen here is part of the carved locking mechanism between the stones.

Urubamba River

Muddy Mountain Road

I had mapped out a route through the mountains which I hoped was passable as some maps showed a road being there but others just a region devoid of even tracks. The roads were in fact there but not in exactly the places that my GPS Open Source Maps showed but it certainly added a bit of excitement. This soft muddy section brought traffic to a standstill as a truck sunk up to it's axles in the mire. Easy going for my trusty KTM

Many Stream Crossings

I crossed so many little streams on one section as I worked my way up into the rain forest. Often I could not see what the surface was like or see the rocks lurking on the bottom. At one point I nearly dropped the bike in the river which would have been a miserable experience as it was starting to get dark and the temperature was dropping quickly as mist and light rain rolled across the lush undergrowth. This was a very strange area as I did not see another vehicle for over an hour and passed through a number of abandoned villages. This was an area of intense guerrilla activity during the days of the Shining Path wars that depopulated vast areas of the high mountains of central Peru

It was a little unnerving waiting my turn to squeeze part this truck that had been caught in a landslide, especially as rocks and debris kept raining down onto the road in front of me - maybe I should have waited further back up the road where I had been told to.

With no room for error vehicles managed to barely get through between the truck and oblivion

Great Road Sign

I love this road sign and the name of a horn being a claxon somehow just appeals to me

Squatting is a problem?

Talking about blowing your horn - you gotta be kidding that this is a problem!!!

Mountain Scenery

After 5 days of riding through some most amazing scenery it was time to get to Lima

Beautiful Stone Bridge

Dropping down into stunning river valleys

Limestone Mountain Scenery

and through areas of stark limestone mountains I joined the main road at the gold mining town of Oroya. From here the road ascended into the clouds at an altitude of 4810 meters ( nearly 16,000 ft ). The road was almost bumper to bumper trucks with cars suicidally passing on blind curves with thick mist and snow making it impossible to see the heavy laden gasoline trucks coming in the other direction. After the pass I descended for almost two hours under some of the worst road conditions I have seen on my entire trip - it was downright scary with cars forced off into ditches by passing trucks with no regard to life or limb. I decided to find a place to stay for the night as I did not then want to deal with Lima traffic at the end of an extremely taxing day.

And now here I am in Lima, this sprawling city of 8 million inhabitants. 

Having now completed the loop of South America and having been on the road for over 13 months it is now time to find a way to ship Moto Naranja home. I expect it will take me a week or so to sort out the logistics but I have decided that this is the end of the road for this incredible adventure.

 In some ways I am sad but but also so very grateful for having this opportunity to live my dream. It started with a heavy heart with the then recent loss of Maggie, my amazing, wonderful wife of 33 years but ends with a new sense of wonder and happiness. The road really has helped me to heal and come to know that love shared is love that can never be lost. 

Machu Picchu Peru

Machu Picchu, one of the world's foremost tourist sites lives up to all it's hype and then some. This spectacular mountain fortress/sacred site hidden from the world for centuries deep in the Peruvian jungle is truly stunningly beautiful.

Machu Picchu in all its glory

With a little help from a friend Muñeca made it up the over 1700 steps through the humid jungle starting at 5am in the morning.

Inquisitive locals

The Sun Temple

Main Temple and sacrificial altar

There is so much to be said about this amazing city but all I can say is that it is a place of supreme tranquility even with the thousands of tourists that mob it every day of the year. I was apprehensive that it would be a letdown after having seen hundreds of photos of it over the years but it was anything but. If you are able, just go and experience the wonder of this place.

I took the long route to Machu Picchu by doing the five day Salkantay Trek that wound its way through the mountains

Lake Humantay

Mount Salkantay towers above the valleys at over 6000 m. The cloud halfway down the mountain in this photo was caused by an avalanche we saw when a large section of ice broke off one of the hanging glaciers.

Mount Salkantay - 6271m , 20574 ft

The second day of the hike was the most strenuous at 22km which crested out at over 4000 m ( 15,000 ft) at Salkantay Pass before dropping down rapidly into the jungle below.

We passed through numerous little villages and the tour company would be waiting for us at one of them with a cooked lunch. 

At night we would stay in permanent camps in villages with once again plenty of hot, good food. The entire tour with all meals provided, entrance to Machu Picchu and transportation cost a total of $170 - what incredible value for money.

One morning I woke with painful blisters between my toes, not from hiking but from dancing ( or at least my version of that difficult art form ) for hours with the fun group of people from all over the world that were my fellow travelers for a few days. I was the oldest by at least 25 years but after a couple of beers and Inca Tequilas age and cultural differences were forgotten and I embarked on the difficult task of teaching them all Poephol Cricket.

Upside down Zip Lining - this is not me

One day we had the option to go zip lining with four lines stretching over a canyon, one of which was over 1 km long. The upside down traverse was the most disorienting but most exhilarating of the morning.

And then came the final 13 km along the railway track from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu where we spent a night before waking up at 3.30 am to begin the hike up the mountain.

Aguas Calientes main "street"

Camino de la Muerte -- Death Road Bolivia

The Camino de la Muerte or Road of Death is aptly named because when it was still the main road from La Paz to Coroico it had the infamous reputation of killing as many as 200 people a year. It is now really a shadow of it's former glory as all the busses and trucks travel on a paved road leaving the cliff hanging track to thrill seeking foreigners.

Water cascades off the mountain in places to add to the thrills

There are many crosses along the way as more than just a gentle reminder to go easy on the throttle

Going downhill you have to drive on the left side, the reason for this is so that the driver of a car or truck can see how close to the edge his front wheel is - it's all about safety you know.
I ended up riding the road twice as the first day it was raining with heavy mist which made the riding a little more treacherous but also I never got to see the incredible views. Having unexpectedly found myself alive at the bottom of the 2000 meter descent I decided to to it again the following day when the weather was so much better.

What's wrong with this clock

To keep things in chronological order I should say a little about the three days I spent in La Paz before I starting riding on crazy roads through the mountains

The Congress Building in La Paz where the clock goes backwards. It actually runs clockwise because the numbers are in the opposite order of a conventional clock. This has been called "The Clock of the South

Wiring nightware

Crowded Streets

Witches Market

A lot of woman still wear traditional clothing with the ever present bowler hat

This city of nearly a million people is situated in a valley at 3600 meters ( almost 12,000 ft ) above seal level. There are what I would call ski gondolars that ring the city ready to whisk people over the rooftops and up to the rim of the valley to avoid the incredibly congested streets. Riding my bike through the streets was hell.

View of La Paz from Alto

 Back to the tranquility of the tropical climate at the bottom of Camino de la Muerte I spent a few days in the town of Coroico - paradise

Hostel Sol y Luna

The lush tropical climate made the beautiful gardens of Sol y Luna an amazing place to relax for a few days after the madness of LaPaz

 View of the valley from Sol y Luna above the town of Coroico

After spending some time thinking on where my maps would next lead me I plotted out a route east and then north from Coroico going through the towns of Caranavi and Guanay and then to Mapiri with the intent of crossing back over the high mountains before dropping down to Lake Titicaca.
The road looked doable although both my Garmin and Google maps would for some unknown ( at the time ) reason not trace out this route. However I spoke to some local people and there was no doubt the road existed and could be done - given the right conditions.

Rio Coroico

I started out following the Rio Coroico down the valley on a good asphalt road only to be stopped by road works about 20 km from the town of Caranavi. Initially I was told they were doing some blasting and excavation and I should be able to go on in about 15 minutes. I asked again after about half an hour and was told it was going to be closed until 5pm that evening - it was 10am in the morning at this point. A taxi driver told me that it was possible to take the " jungle road" but it would take about 2 hours. As I could see the road on my Garmin I decided to chance it.

I climbed up out of the valley on a winding road and stopped to take a photo of the excavations going on below me. As I stopped the much anticipated but totally unexpected blast took place across the valley from me -- I nearly S**t myself !

What an amazingly beautiful ride through the jungle

Many river crossings

Repairs needed

All was going well until I went to hit the back brakes at a corner - nothing!! Somehow I wrangled the beast around the bend and stopped to see what the heck just happened. The rough road had dislodged my extra fuel canister ( never to be seen again ) and the bungies strapping it down had got stuck in the rear brake calipers. It took me nearly two hours to fix the problem as a few parts had got bent and a could not work out why the rear brake pads would not stay in place. Anyway sitting on the side of the road on the edge of a stream in the most amazingly beautiful place with large azure blue butterflies landing on and around me I could not be too pissed off about having to make repairs to Moto Naranja

I spent that night in the town of Guanay which was surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and farmlands. The next morning I awoke to light rain and mist and although I had been told that the road from here onwards could become impassable in wet weather I decided to give it a go.

For a start it was great not having to deal with any dust and the slightly damp dirt road had great traction making for some fun riding. However this changed dramatically once I started climbing higher and the rain got harder. The red clay became like a skating rink.

After the wheels became caked in clay it was almost impossible to keep the bike going in a straight line and the downhills were just downright terrifying. I finally dropped the bike and slithered to a stop covered in mud from head to toe. With a little help from a passing 4 wheel drive I got the bike upright but decided it best to turn around, especially as the huge black cloud higher up the mountain is where I was headed.
So three hours after setting out I was back in the town of Guanay just as the locals were coming out of church on Palm Sunday, all waving beautifully woven palm crosses. After a meal at a restaurant on the town square I then set out on the long road all the way back to La Paz where I arrived late that evening.

The next morning bright and early I was off to Lake Titicaca and with the help of a ferry arrived in the town of Copacabana. Yes, all you school kids who snickered at the name of this lake, it does exist and that is how you spell it.

Basilica of our Lady Copacabana

Isla del Sol

 This photo was taken looking back across Lake Titicaca from Isla del Sol with the snow covered Andes in the background.

Inca ruins of a nunnery on Isla de la Luna

This wall on the same site is pre - Incan. Just look at the intricate stonework with the interlocking blocks, so precise that you would be unable to slip a piece of paper between the cracks

A papyrus craft much like the one constructed by Thor Heyerdahl in the 1970's for his Ra I and Ra II expeditions ( ok you are going to have to Google that one yourselves ! )

That's it for now -- next stop Peru