Cielito Lindo

It was difficult to leave our little perch over the sea at Coyote Cal's, and Ta and Rick's hospitality, but after a waffle and a few eggs, we got back on the road. Rather than taking the paved road back to Mex1, we followed the track down the coast for several miles, past fields and fields of artichokes and brussel sprouts. We were never quite sure if we were on the "road" or just a track between the fields.

We popped out to the coast at one point, and saw what looked like steam in the distance. As we drove up closer, we found a series of blowholes. They were not giant, but the entire rocky outcropping vibrated and rumbled as a large wave entered the underground chambers.

When what appeared to be the main road headed inland, we bumped over the high coastal mountains and eventually ended up in San Vincente and back on Mex 1.While the vegetation is mostly low scrub, occasionally there are groups of large juniper bushes in sheltered areas. The berries are the size of ping pong balls and really do look like cones, as I've been told they truly are. Disturbed or previously gardened spaces were full of agave plants. The leaves are thick like a succulent, and in beautiful geometric swirls from the base. When in bloom, an 8 foot stalk shoots straight up, with yellow flowers. In this one remote spot where I stopped to take the photo, there was a hummingbird refueling at the flowers, and sure enough, a rufous hummingbird dove in to protect his turf, just like I see at the cabin.

The highway runs through a number of small towns and even smaller towns, some large enough to have many stores, but always the ubiquitous Llantera, or tire repair shop. Today, everything looked a little dusty, as the wind had picked up again. Many large farms lined the sides of the road, with strawberries currently in season. I don't know why we passed the boxes for sale without buying any. Passing strategies on a two lane highway are very interesting in Mexico. The double yellow line is just a suggestion. Cars pass with impunity, and will overtake you from the rear before you can pull out to try to pass the car in front of you. Fortunately speed bumps impede you through the small towns, to keep the drivers from hitting every pedestrian in sight. And you have to keep your eyes open for the tiny Alto (stop) signs on the right side of the road. They are about 4 foot high and way over to the side. I watch for them while Richard drives. To either side of the main road as it passes near a town, there seem to be dirt tracks. The equivalent of a pedestrian/bike lane. Don't blame them for moving as far out of the way as possible.

Past San Quintin, we turned out to the coast and found a nice little restaurant and camper park at Cielito Lindo. OK - perhaps it's long past its heyday, but maybe someday the tourists will come back. It's set back from the coast, but with the blowing wind, maybe not such a bad idea. After "hora feliz", we had a wonderful dinner. A large group of locals also arrived for happy hour; Americans who live down here in the RV park either for the winter or full time. When I asked the bartender what they did all day, he said he had no idea. They never miss happy hour and they play dominoes for 4 hours every Wednesday. As far away from town as this little place is, two mariachi singers on guitar and accordion were there to serenade us. I had no idea that Cielito Lindo is the name of the song with "ay, ay, ay, ay", also sung by rugby teams with different lyrics.