Thursday, July 21, 2022

Vlad the Impaler

Vlad III of Transylvania

 Vlad III, Prince of Wallachia in present day Romania earned the nickname "Impaler" for his preferred method of dispatching his enemies and anyone he found to be tiresome. Vlad was the real life character that inspired Bram Stoker to create Dracula who in comparison was a veritable saint. 


If done right the impaled could live for up to 48 hours whilst Vlad had supper as he watched.
Now Vlad who had a few wives, at least one of which jumped off the castle balcony, decided to take Katarina of Brasov as a lover. Imagine how the conversation went with Katarina's father :- So Vlad what is your intention with my daughter? Well actually Mr Katarina's Dad it is to Imp....
Anyway enough of the history lesson.

Bram Castle
Bram Castle in Transylvania is where our arch villain Dracula supposedly hung out.

Peles Castle
A much more interesting castle in the same area is Peles Castle which was built for King Carol I.
Brasov

I found the town of Brasov in the same region of Transylvania to be absolutely enchanting and ended up spending five nights there.

Zip Line

Just outside the city of Brasov is a large natural area leading up the Seven Ladders Canyon. The three kilometers back through the forest can be a whole lot of fun when you take the zip line. In fact it is a series of 36 different zip lines that very often transition from one to the next way up on a platform perched in the top of a fir tree. With nobody to help fixing the pulley to the line you have to make sure you get it right which causes a bit of anxiety for the first couple.

High mountain Shepherd

Way above treeline there were large flocks of sheep which were always attended by a shepherd and a pack of dogs that would come charging at me as I passed.

A friendly dog ( I think)



Endless trails


Incredible riding

I have got to say that Romania has provided for some of the best riding that I have had on this trip with narrow farm tracks that are up in the tundra before plunging back down into the thick forests.

Hobbit House
And how about my own little Hobbit house to spend the night in. It was leaning at such an angle that my neighbors commented that it looked like it was on a side stand.

Transfagarasan Highway

And of course no trip to Romania would be complete without a ride on the Transfagarasan Highway. Built during the 1970s by the communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu this was considered a strategic military road should the country be invaded by the USSR.

Saturday, July 9, 2022

Lost and Found

Riding Jacket
What is my riding jacket doing sitting in the middle of a grassy trail in Bulgaria you may ask. Well it is a long story that reminds me a bit of what happens when you play a Country Song in reverse - You get your house back, you get your pickup truck back and inevitably your girlfriend too.
After having come from Turkey and spent way too much time on good paved roads it was time to get back onto some fun dirt but I had not completely anticipated what havoc the recent heavy rains had caused.

Washed out
After a steep climb that took nearly an hour on what looked like a washed out river bed but was in fact a road, I came out on a ridge. From there it looked like the trail was a little flatter as it moved back into forest, but as it became less defined and muddier and slipperyer (
 is that a word ) my struggles really began.


With the temperature and humidity in the forest were way up there and after numerous "offs" the trail kinda faded out. Picking up a fully loaded moto in muddy conditions often entails removing the panniers to reduce the weight but after doing this many times I was rapidly running out of energy. I decided to turn around and find another way out of the area. This is what I found


My kinda trail
Back down into the valley after 20 km of riding on tracks like the picture above restored my spirits a little but as I came into the town of Varshets my engine did a huge backfire and quit on me. Luckily this was right outside a very much communist era hotel that I checked into after filling out a long form for international guests. Getting my muddy bags off the bike and into the hotel I discovered that somehow my riding jacket was no longer strapped to the side of one of the bags. These jackets are used not only for protection against the elements but also for protection in case of a fall and are not an inexpensive piece of equipment. I was not happy - hot, tired, mud covered, leg cramps from dehydration, no jacket and a motorcycle that in my mind was now F***ed.

Sunflowers
There is always something to cheer me up and thinking back on the day there was a lot of good riding and some amazing sights like the fields of sunflowers that are cultivated throughout this region. Once in a better mood I started to research online into the possible cause of my bike problem. I came upon a forum with an obscure post from about two years before where a rider had what seemed to be a similar problem where the rubber engine intake had become loose, taken in air, and blew off the throttle body when it backfired. 
The next morning early I was up and had the bike apart and put back together before breakfast and had it running like a charm. I then looked back on photos from the day before and could see at what point I still had my jacket on the bike. I rode back about and hour and a half to the point in the forest where it got really slippery and then walked for about twenty minutes and there it was in the middle of the grassy trail !!  And so back to the start of the country music song.

Wow
The next day on the road to the Romanian border I came across this signpost. It seemed like drastic measures to ensure that you stopped at the traffic light. 
I crossed into Romania using the bridge across the Danube at Vidin and then followed the river through a very fertile flood-plain the the capital Bucharest.


The city was known as the Paris of the east before the communist times and there are some magnificent buildings in the old town but these gives way to wide boulevards and ugly apartment blocks. Vast areas of the city were flattened on orders of the dictator Nicolae Ceausescu and characterless buildings like the 1000 room parliament building, that I will be visiting this afternoon, were erected.