Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Enough Snow Now!!

 

A snowplow had made it easy

The high mountains that the Trans European Trail passes through in Turkey still had plenty of snow but then just down the valley the scenery would change dramatically and the high tundra type of vegetation and pine forests would suddenly give way to the emerald green of tea plantations.

Tea plantation

I spent the last night in Turkey in the town of Rize on the Black Sea coast before heading to the Georgian border. There were trucks parked on the side of the road for at least 20km before the border waiting their turn to get through the formalities of passing into Georgia. I was expecting the worst thinking it could take me days to get through but upon arrival there was not another car in line and 15 minutes later I was into Georgia.

Batumi, Georgia

My first stop in Georgia was the Black Sea resort town of Batumi which was such a contrast of old architecture and then ultra modern hotels representing all the big names in the hotel world. This is where Georgians go for their seaside holidays.

Enguri River George
It did not take me long to find the good mountain roads even though it did take me five hours of riding in the rain to get there.

Mestia

The medieval watchtowers of the Svaneti region were also fortresses to be used when the invaders from just the other side of the mountain range ( now Russia ) came calling.

The road to Ushguli

The little village of Ushguli felt just so remote and the amazing views of Caucasus mountains that are the border with Russia were absolutely stunning.

Ushguli


Locals having breakfast

I was invited to this breakfast feast that seemed to be a lot more about drinking than eating and although only late morning had obviously been going on for many hours. I had a small glass of Chacha ( grape brandy ) just to show that I could drink along with the best of them.

Tblisi
I am now in the capital of Georgia, Tblisi contemplating my next move. I do know that visiting the wine region is next on the agenda but after that it gets a little more difficult.
As the land border between Georgia and Azerbaijan is closed I have one of three options.
1) Ride through Russia around the Caspian sea but this, although possible as I have a visa is probably not advisable. Not be able to use credit cards or get money out of ATMs right now will entail carrying hard currency and traveling through the Chechnya region.
2) Going through Iran but with an American passport this is definitely problematic.
3) Flying my bike from here to Kazakhstan. This seems like a possibility and so I am just now waiting to get some news back on this.
Stay tuned!!





Thursday, May 19, 2022

Headless, Legless, Armless

 

Bodiless
How come sculptors, after millenia have not perfected the art of keeping all the body parts together? Surely it cannot be that difficult.

Headless
 Wanting to make the most of my museum pass in Turkey I wandered into the Archeological Museum in Istanbul and after wondering about this deeply troubling question I thought it best to find an attraction more fitting to my nature.

Armless?

Just maybe I found the answer in the Topkapi Palace armory. Did the body part become detached BEFORE the sculptor applied his art? Troubling indeed. And what about all those other body protuberances that have been whacked off over the centuries.
Anyway time to move ahead with the travelogue.

Istanbul Skyline

I do not like the idea of having a "bucket list" but if I did have one this city would definitely have been on it. Istanbul, Constantinople, dividing line between Asia and Europe. So many names are conjured up when thinking about this fabled place. 

Hagia Sophia Mosque

The vibrancy of this city is hard to describe with most of the main sites being on the European side of the Bosphorus but the fun restaurant and food markets areas being found on the other, or Asian side. The Asian side is where I stayed.

The Bosphorus

 There are ferries crossing the Bosphorus every few minutes making it easy to hop on one without having to plan ahead.

How many types of olive are there?

Black Sea Coastline

I started following the Black Sea coastline eastwards along a good paved road through many small towns and villages but where I wanted to be from a riding perspective was a little inland  on the Trans European Trail ( TET )

Endless Views


Glad the mud was dry


Rich Pasturelands



I stopped in one little village to consult my map and in no time at all I was seated at a table and enjoying lunch with this incredibly hospitable couple and a few of their neighbours. Thank you for the invite Azime. The Turkish people are so amazingly friendly and it is difficult to even stop at a petrol station without spending half an hour with the owner having a cup ( actually a tulip shaped glass ) of the ubiquitous Turkish tea ( Çai )

Just great roads to ride on





Monday, May 9, 2022

It Pays to Advertise

 

Early Advertising in Ephesus
Follow the footprint and take a left at the next crossroads to the house of "Great Repute" or is it ill repute? I am now in Turkey and visiting the ancient city of Ephesus. The temple of Artemis at Ephesus is considered one of the 7 Wonders of the Ancient world - What an amazing place.

Library at Ephesus

Right across the street from the previously mentioned establishment is found the library. Connecting the two is a secret underground tunnel -- ummm, I wonder what that was about? Honey, I will be spending the afternoon in the library!!

The Goddess Nike
You can see the swoosh in her dress where the Nike footwear emblem comes from. Makes you wanna go to the :-

Public convenience

Anyway that is the Richard tour of Ephesus. For a more enlightening and cultural experience it would be best to Google it!!

Since my last post I have travelled through North Montenegro and the northern part of Greece and then into Turkey.

Here are some images of the fantastic riding I had in North Macedonia. When I was heading towards the mountains I was stopped by the police - expecting that I had committed some terrible offense, only to find that the police were making sure that I did not go riding in the mountains by myself as the roads were very bad. Nice, very friendly people. Did I heed their advice?

Near Bitola North Macedonia


Old Roman road


Mountain Village


End of the line
I guess the cops did know what they were talking about.

Salamander

What the heck was a salamander doing on the snow way up here in the mountains!!

Northern Greece

Due to the snow in North Macedonia I cut down into Greece with the hope that the mountain trails would be less snowed in, however many had not been cleared of downed trees after the winter. 
Squeeze
I did manage to get past this obstacle but around the next corner there were a lot more trees across the trail so I had to retreat.

Meteora

I visited the area known as Meteora where numerous towering sandstone outcroppings were topped by monasteries dating back over 500 years. A place I would put near the top of incredible sights that I have seen so far on this trip.

1915 Çanakkale Bridge

After crossing into Turkey at Ipsala I visited the Gallipoli Peninsular, and the many battlefields and cemeteries from WW1 - not sure why I visit battlefields as they are depressing knowing that all that was gained was the heartache of so many mothers.
The Çanakkale suspension bridge across the Dardanelles Strait, was opened just two months ago, and at a length of 4,600 metres it is the longest in the world. I had recently read about this engineering marvel and was really looking forward to it - got more than I had expected. After paying my toll and crossing the bridge I took a wrong turn and found myself coming back across in the other direction. Arriving back at the same toll booth I explained that I so enjoyed it the first time I wanted more of the same. So I got to cross the bridge not once but three times!!

Dang Dog
I have got a bit of a history of being bitten by dogs. I had been warned about this mutt that was hanging around the pensione where I was staying. Having walked past him a couple of times with no problems I let my guard down - he snuck up behind me and -- ouch!!
Anyway as I have not foamed at the mouth I think I am ok.