Traveling home

We knew that the hardest parts of this trip would be getting to the border, and coming home. It's only a couple of hours from San Felipe to Mexicali, where we waited an hour and a half to head through US immigration. We never did see a Mexican side, so we still have not turned in our Mexican tourist card or had our passports stamped. Oh well. We were not about to wait in that line a second time.

We drove back through Yuma, Phoenix, and Flagstaff, going from Sonoran desert to mountains and pine trees on another windy day. Yuma on a windy day is my definition of purgatory. I'll take the cold of a Boulder winter day anytime. We spent the night in Tuba City, Arizona, on the edge of the Hopi lands. The Moenkopi hotel was a treasure! Absolutely gorgeous inside and out. Almost as beautiful as the monuments of stone that greeted us the next morning.

Our intermediate destination for the last mini-vacation of the trip was a stop in Moab. Kelly had run the Canyonlands Half and was waiting for us. Fortunately she was not hobbling like she had been after St George marathon, so we were able to hike some of the shorter trails in Arches. Delicate Arch is always a favorite, even though you feel as if you are going to slide off the sandstone.

Before the sun set and we also had a chance to visit Landscape Arch.

We couldn't leave Moab without a trail run. Kelly found us the Jackson Trail along the Colorado River. We didn't climb all the way up to the mesa, but it was a spectacular way to start the day, and begin the final trek back to Boulder.

Muneca and Quixote

Up to San Felipe

Knowing that San Felipe was only a few hours up the road, we took our time driving up the coast. At the start, little dirt tracks headed off down to the water whenever there was a small beach or cove. Gradually the mountains moved farther away from the coast, and a broad coastal desert plane opened up, remnants of the old Colorado River delta.

San Felipe used to be quite the spring break destination before Americans started getting worried about heading to Mexico. There are still lots of restaurants and shops along the malecon, and we had yet another good fish taco.

Pete's Camp, our destination for the night, was several miles north of town. It is a little settlement of vacation houses, and includes a restaurant and a bar. Noisy (and drunk) Americans at the bar, our first TV in two weeks showing Fox News coverage of the missing Malaysian plane - it was all an unfortunate culture shock. But the palapas on the beach were wonderful, and the $2 shower was appreciated. You know it's been awhile when you can't even remember when you had the last one. Loraine and her friends were staying at one of the houses, so we had some hilarious laughs with them for the evening.

Bahia de Gonzaga 2

Muneca found a new friend today - Mr Monkey

Sunrise over our toes looking out the penthouse and across the bay. Each morning I am once again amazed at the beauty and how lucky we are. It does not get old. My definition of the perfect morning is one where the cup of coffee is slowly sipped while the surroundings just take over. No newspaper, no radio, no thinking of what needs to get done in the day.

Richard borrowed a kayak from our neighbors, John and Cindy. John was already up at sunrise fishing far out in the bay. After paddling out to see John, Richard kept on going to the far rock outcrop, a tiny speck on the horizon. The water was completely clear and calm, and the sun was already warm. While Richard was out, I managed to take advantage of the weather to have a few dips in the sea. The water is refreshing, so the breeze has to be down and the sun hot, to make me want to actually swim. It appears you better do your swimming in the morning, before the breezes start.


Today was no exception. Right around 2pm, the cool breeze picked up, not great for swimming, but perfect weather for walking on the beach and hanging out. The weather has been in the low to mid 70's most days. We might have seen 80 down south. We were walking south along the beach into the wind, and looking forward to having the wind at our backs on the return. About 10 minutes after we turned around, it got very warm, and the wind had shifted to hit us from the dessert on the west side. Now we knew why the expensive palapas had slatted coverings on three sides. We were getting sandblasted.

It subsided a little around dinner time, so we walked down to the hotel for another round of fish tacos. Another large group of riders were there. They were based out of Utah and had broken into different groups and were riding all over the place.After a nightcap with Cindy and John, we attempted to figure out how we were going to sleep in the gale. Unfortunately the palapa wasn't large enough to drive into, but we did consider it. We had parked in front the the palapa to use it as a windbreak, but the tent was higher than the palapa, and was being blasted from the side. We moved the car so the hard side of the tent aced the wind. It was a long few hours until the wind stopped as suddenly as it had started.

Bahia de Gonzaga

As we woke up and saw the bay in the daylight, it was another beautiful spot, although the beach was lined with rocks. We walked up the beach and around the point on the south end of the bay.

Plenty of rocks to climb on at the point, and all of them weathered and eroded.

We hopped over to the next bay south when we saw the white sandy beach and the large palapas. We'll stay for a few more days until we have to start the trek home. The road from San Felipe is now paved this far. I wonder what will start changing now. The palapas are more expensive, but they are well built and can shelter you from the winds. Breakfast was at the little mercado. You get what they are cooking. Huevos y tocino (eggs and bacon), all cooked up with onions and chile sauce. And fresh tortillas for scooping it up. Despite the cook's gruff appearance, he was willing to whip me up some scrambled eggs and skip the bacon.

Another lazy day of walking on the beach, reading and painting. Watching the light change on the water. The island on the edge of the bay was so crisp in the morning light and I though it would fade over the course of the day. It never did. It is so incredibly clear and dry here, things stay in focus forever. Pelicans, osprey, gulls, and grebes ply the water, especially when a fisherman returns and starts filleting the fish. Little Japito, the neighbor dog, is having a great time investigating the newly caught fish, and steering well clear of the pelicans.
On the other side of the bay there is a small camp of houses and a little hotel. Half an hour walk, and we sat on the porch drinking cervezas and eating some wonderful fish tacos, chatting to a motorbike rider from Colorado named Barry. I could see that Richard was anticipating the next trip down here where he could trailer the bike and ride some of the amazing back roads. I would be quite happy to hang here while he rides around. Next spring?

Ojo de Liebre and the Whales

There's whale watching and then there's whale watching. We've been out in Bahia de Banderas a few times, and seen wonderful whales scattered in the huge bay. The lagoons at San Ignacio and Ojo de Liebre are huge, warm, high in salinity, and prime nurseries for gray whales. At the height of the season, more than 1200 whales come to give birth. Some had already started the migration back to Alaska, but the lagoon was still full of whales. You can see whales from the sand dunes, shining grey humps on the water, catching a little nap while the water is calm. You can see lazy spouts in every direction, and hear the exhales.

The day before had been hot, so the day dawned foggy. We had heard to be prepared for the boat to leave at any time in the morning, but it was almost 11:30 before we set off with our guide, Sirena, and our lanchero. We didn't need to stop at our first sighting; the whales were everywhere, with their calves swimming playfully beside the mothers. Many were still napping, so after visiting a few, we headed farther out the lagoon to a small shoal.

The tide was moving out, creating a line of small breakers. This was obviously the whale playground, where the mothers were teaching their young to swim against a strong current. There were at least 20 mothers out here. We drifted in the area to see if there were any curious whales out there. Sure enough, one mother and calf came right up to the boat, where we could reach out and pet them. They loved spouting just when we were leaning over them. The baby smelled fresh, but the mother's spout definitely smelled more fishy. The baby nurses all the time in the lagoon, but the mother doesn't have a food source until she starts to head back north.

They stayed with us for about 10 minutes, coming up for a scratch, swimming from side to side, bumping the boat, rolling slightly sideways so they could look us in the eye. When this pair left, several others came near us, but not near enough to pet. They would swim around us, and under us, and spout. Now that was whale watching. 

From there, we wanted to head north and back to the other side again. There's a small dirt road that cuts off Mex1, we had heard that it was rather rough, and we were hoping to get to the other side before dark. Even in the Tacoma, it was slow going. 60 km in 2 hours, on a rocky road. At times there are side roads in the sand adjacent to the main, raised road. These were faster and far more comfortable in places. The road wound through the coastal mountains, and eventually out to Bahia de Gonzaga. White sand, islands, crisp clear water and air.

We stayed at Papa Fernandez the first night. Well, it's another one that has seen better days, but the campsite was on the edge of the dunes, and we could listen to the waves lap the shore. We ate dinner at the little restaurant, not even sure if it was open. They were "closing " at 8. It was then 7. So I guess they were opening for us. Fantastic chile rellenos, and photos on the wall of John Wayne and Papa Fernandez from the '60's. Baja in the old days. Yet certainly less changed here than in most every other part of the world.

Driving again - heading to the whales

The time has come to head back north. It feels funny not to be heading further down the peninsula, but we don't have to retrace our steps too much, as we are planning to head up the Sea of Cortez side as much as we can. First stop today was Mulege, ice and beer essentials. We also searched out a breakfast spot and found Mago's. Everything grown in their backyard garden. Fantastic bread with jalapeños baked inside. Sitting street side with all the baked goods enticing us. We also bought a huge "pan de datil", or date bread, more like a scone.

Back up mex1 toward Guerrero Negro, and off through the salt flats to Ojo de Liebre to see the whales. Beautifully desolate, inhabited by about 20 people during whale season. And about 1200 whales.

Bahia Concepcion - El Requeson - Day 2

The wind dropped completely during the night, and it became so silent. The water is still in the cove with barely a murmur. Straight out the front of the tent, the sun rose over the bay, intense and shimmering.

In the early morning quiet, a raucous seagull chased another one with a fish. In hot pursuit was the great blue heron who had caught the fish in the first place. The gulls kept their prize and the heron returned to stalking the shallows.

Behind us, scattered across the hillsides, are the tall cadron cactus. Three turkey vultures arrived to perch on the pinnacles. They slowly turned their backs to the sun and spread their wings, each cactus transformed into a totem pole. The little girl who lives here is already riding her bicycle up and down this short beach. It takes about a minute and I think she must do this about 100 times a day. Well, it is the weekend.

With the wind picking up again, we walked over to the island, and down the other side, where the wind is howling. I didn't realize how protected we are. But the water is so clear, it's Incredible.

After lunch we headed up to the next beach where there is a little restaurant. What a treat, Olivia, from Tijuana, owns the place and has been there for 24 years. She is now married to an American, Mark. His 24 year old son Nathan has joined them here. We split an Amazing fish burger from the yellowtail that Nathan speared yesterday, complete with roasted poblano peppers. Quite possibly the most wonderful thing I have ever tasted.We also met a couple of firefighters from San Diego there. They come down as often as they can. If they cross the border at 4am they can be here by 4 PM. Hmmmm. Not a bad getaway. Well, if you didn't have the first 1000 miles from Colorado.

Bahia Concepcion - El Requeson

We didn't have to travel too far today. Only 12 miles from Mulege, the gorgeous Bahia Concepcion starts. We had heard that it was beautiful, and it lives up to the hype. Numerous beaches for camping line the 20 mile coast of the bay. We pulled into one of the last ones, El Requeson.  A palapa was available to pull alongside and shield us from the breeze. We are right on the edge of the water, maybe 12 feet from clear blue- green agua. The corona commercial, find your beach, did come to mind when we pulled our chairs up to the water, and popped a Pacifico. The water is certainly warmer, and would be fine if the days were a little less windy. Apparently there is a northern cold front arriving. The first of the winter. Oh well. It's still beats snow.

We've spent the day doing very little. I painted for a few hours while Richard wandered over to the little island that is connected at low tide. A short dip in the water that we could enjoy a little more than yesterday. Then we walked south along the beach to the next little campsite where we met a German couple who have been traveling around the world since 2008. We may be a tad envious... Once you head out on the road, you just don't want to stop.

There's a woman who "runs" the little campsite here, Gabriela. Well, she collects the 80 pesos (about $6), but she loves to chat. In nice clear Spanish, so I can understand. She and her family live on this little beach year round. In what looks like a little shack. Yet somehow she had Internet access yesterday and told me that the cold front was coming through. When I told her that we lived in Colorado, she said she had been reading about Colorado and the parks in the mountains. I told her that's where I work in the summer leading hikes, then she pointed to the local mountain and said she had climbed it 4 times. "Very emotional" she said. It looks like pure loose rock from the beach.

Sea of Cortez - Mulege

Mex 1 crosses from one side of baja to the other near the center of the peninsula. After another long walk along the beach, and an invigorating, extremely quick dip in the ocean, our first one of the trip, we packed up and headed back to the highway. First stop was the date palm oasis of San Ignacio.

What a place for the Jesuits to try to build a mission, but one still sits right opposite the main square. The walls are made of lava rocks and mortar, and there are three incredible gilt altar pieces inside. We stopped for a quick walk around town, a not so quick bite to eat, and some incredible date pie. Maybe on the way back I will buy a date empanada.


The road continues through the central plain and then up and over the coastal mountains on the sea of Cortez side, arriving at the coast at Santa Rosalia. The town looks more like a Californian gold mining town! than a baja town. Streets are long and narrow, and lined with wooden buildings, despite not having seen a tree in the last 500 miles. Apparently the town was a French copper town, and all the timber was shipped in from Oregon! They still have a famous bakery in town, so we picked up some rolls and pan dulce.


Although we thought we would head all the way to Bahia Concepcion tonight, the last town before the beaches is Mulege, at the mouth of a river. A campground along the river was recommended, so here we are, about a mile's walk from town on a river path. No waves pounding outside the tent tonight, but it is warm, and we can hear the date palms swaying. This is the first night I haven't had on jeans and a warm jacket. We walked into town for dinner, and the town is more norteamericano than some we have been to. But a very nice atmosphere nonetheless. It's been nice to have a mix of isolated places and small towns.

Bahia Asuncion

We decided to stay another night in Bahia Asuncion just because we were tired of being on the road. It was great to have a day without getting into the car. We walked along the beach for miles in the morning, hung around the campsite in the afternoon reading and painting.

In the afternoon we walked through the town. The main businesses in town are the two fishing co-ops. This boat was hauling in the catch and putting it straight on the ice truck. The birds were certainly hoping for a snack. And I learned why everyone wears a hoodie - bird poop. Apparently the wages are good and the town is pretty prosperous. Lots of new trucks around town.

 We walked out to the point, where it is less protected, but very beautiful - the "Alaskan" side of town as the locals say. Another blowhole or bufadora in the rocks off the point.

Perry, the guy who was taking care of the campsites, came by with some extra fish, so we made some wonderful fish tacos with avocado. Local expats, Tim and Barb, invited us over to their house for a bonfire. It was a cool evening, I even had on my north face puffy down parka, so the fire was welcome.

One of the things about these small Mexican towns is the dogs. Big ones, small ones, they are everywhere, roaming freely through every village. We had a few make the rounds of the campground here, but our favorite was this enormous pit bull named Todo. He would just saunter over and suddenly appear next to you. If you scratched him, he would lean against your leg. If you sat down, he would politely put one paw on your leg. If that was well received, the other paw might go up. And if that wasn't too much, his two paws would go to your shoulders and he would give you a big hug, and try to climb in your lap. Mind you, he weighs in over 100 pounds. He never once barked, although we did think he was trying to sing for his supper, a faint little serenade.

Down the center

After leaving San Quintin in the morning, we had a long day ahead of us. We wanted to get to Guerrero Negro and beyond, which meant several hundred miles of travel. This stretch of mex1 crosses over the coastal mountains and then mostly straight down the inland Sonoran Desert landscape. If we thought it was barren before, there is really nothing in this area but low scrub, and lots of cactus. It is called the "Valle de los Cirios" as the tall. Dr Seuss looking Cirios cactus rise up all over. Looking a bit like burned out timber from a distance. Up close they have succulent little leaves amidst vicious thorns. They have a tiny bit of flowering fuzz at the top.

Soon other cactii were joining them.  That tall one in the first  photo is a Cadron cactus. There was also the beautiful red barrel cactus; the red shoots felt like hard plastic pieces. Everything that grew out there had thorns.

We stopped for lunch at a great little cafe in Catavina. There are cafés in most of the tiny settlements along the main road, but they are not many settlements on the way, and no gas for about 200 miles. But this place was wonderful. A nice looking kid served us and I asked if he was from there. No, from Ensenada. Just finished school and had some months off and came down here. Wow. It's a halfway point for tour buses that go to see the whales, so I guess they get a lot of business, but not exactly a resort.

 However the area around there was beautiful, it was all landscaped by hills of boulders, with the Cirios popping out of the cracks in the mounds of rocks. There were miles of this just north of Catavina. To the south, there was another mountain made up of darker rocks. Where did it come from? Around San Quintin there is a volcanic arc with 6 volcanoes, but I couldn't tell what formed the landscape here. More things to look up at some point.

We eventually ended up at Bahia Asuncion out on the coast. It's a little town with two fishing co-ops. Apparently the jobs pay well as it feels like everyone is driving a new truck. We are camping just a few yards from the beach at camping Sirena. Really just a patch of sand, but there is a toilet and a shower. But go to the beach and set out to your left, and you can walk forever, maybe 20 or 30 miles. Unfortunately, the wind is still picking up in the afternoon, making it cold and a little uncomfortable on the beach. But the morning are perfect.

We ate at a little taco stand in town. Ask Richard about the chicharron. Not the best choice. But the chile rellenos were excellent.

Cielito Lindo

It was difficult to leave our little perch over the sea at Coyote Cal's, and Ta and Rick's hospitality, but after a waffle and a few eggs, we got back on the road. Rather than taking the paved road back to Mex1, we followed the track down the coast for several miles, past fields and fields of artichokes and brussel sprouts. We were never quite sure if we were on the "road" or just a track between the fields.

We popped out to the coast at one point, and saw what looked like steam in the distance. As we drove up closer, we found a series of blowholes. They were not giant, but the entire rocky outcropping vibrated and rumbled as a large wave entered the underground chambers.

When what appeared to be the main road headed inland, we bumped over the high coastal mountains and eventually ended up in San Vincente and back on Mex 1.While the vegetation is mostly low scrub, occasionally there are groups of large juniper bushes in sheltered areas. The berries are the size of ping pong balls and really do look like cones, as I've been told they truly are. Disturbed or previously gardened spaces were full of agave plants. The leaves are thick like a succulent, and in beautiful geometric swirls from the base. When in bloom, an 8 foot stalk shoots straight up, with yellow flowers. In this one remote spot where I stopped to take the photo, there was a hummingbird refueling at the flowers, and sure enough, a rufous hummingbird dove in to protect his turf, just like I see at the cabin.

The highway runs through a number of small towns and even smaller towns, some large enough to have many stores, but always the ubiquitous Llantera, or tire repair shop. Today, everything looked a little dusty, as the wind had picked up again. Many large farms lined the sides of the road, with strawberries currently in season. I don't know why we passed the boxes for sale without buying any. Passing strategies on a two lane highway are very interesting in Mexico. The double yellow line is just a suggestion. Cars pass with impunity, and will overtake you from the rear before you can pull out to try to pass the car in front of you. Fortunately speed bumps impede you through the small towns, to keep the drivers from hitting every pedestrian in sight. And you have to keep your eyes open for the tiny Alto (stop) signs on the right side of the road. They are about 4 foot high and way over to the side. I watch for them while Richard drives. To either side of the main road as it passes near a town, there seem to be dirt tracks. The equivalent of a pedestrian/bike lane. Don't blame them for moving as far out of the way as possible.

Past San Quintin, we turned out to the coast and found a nice little restaurant and camper park at Cielito Lindo. OK - perhaps it's long past its heyday, but maybe someday the tourists will come back. It's set back from the coast, but with the blowing wind, maybe not such a bad idea. After "hora feliz", we had a wonderful dinner. A large group of locals also arrived for happy hour; Americans who live down here in the RV park either for the winter or full time. When I asked the bartender what they did all day, he said he had no idea. They never miss happy hour and they play dominoes for 4 hours every Wednesday. As far away from town as this little place is, two mariachi singers on guitar and accordion were there to serenade us. I had no idea that Cielito Lindo is the name of the song with "ay, ay, ay, ay", also sung by rugby teams with different lyrics.

San Diego to Erendira

Our first morning waking up in the tent was magical. We listened to the sounds of the thundering waves all night. The surf was still pounding from the pacific storm that has just barreled through, but during the night it calmed slightly. Our rooftop tent felt like a treehouse as I looked down on the beach below. Loraine came to visit us bright and early with some coffee, a brisk walk on the beach, and then we were off for the border.
We wound our way down the coast, past Ensenada. Last time I was down here was 1972, and, yes, it has changed a lot. But the road was good. Too bad the Malecon was blocked off for Carnival, so we skipped stopping in town. We took a small road out to the coast to a little town called Erendira, and are camping at a little hostel called Coyote Cal's. Although the wind is blowing hard, we walked down onto the rocky shore below us, where we could see the seals stretched out on the big rock catching the sun.

Apart from being located in a beautiful place, the owners are wonderful. This is Ta in her massage studio. Next trip, I will plan for this stopover.

We are looking at miles of coastline in either direction from our little perch, although we've got the window on the windward side of the tent closed. Down below is the one little cove where the seals and the cormorants could swim.

We drove back to the little town for dinner at Gloria's family restaurant. We sat watching a Mexican soap while they cooked us some wonderful food in the back. This is what mole is supposed to taste like. Back at Coyote Cal's, we sat by the fire, and had a few beers with a group of motorcycle guys from California and a young surfer from Peru named Peter. He is on a year's journey from the US back to Peru in a truck, searching out the best waves. 

I wish I could take a photo of the stars tonight. No mist, no moon, and the wind has cleared the sky completely. There are even more stars than I see in the mountains of Colorado. Stars in between the stars, and then more stars. The moon is just a sliver, looking like a saucer under a cup, as it sets early this evening. And the seals are still out on their rock, singing us to sleep.

To the Pacific

Ok, Winslow, Arizona wasn't quite so romantic in the light of day. Puddles and low grey clouds greeted us. And grim coffee from the Motel 6. But it was another day closer to the beach.

The sun came out quickly, and the snow capped mountains around Flagstaff kept us moving towards our goal. It seemed like this would be another day when the weather kept throwing everything at us. Cold and sunny, icy, foggy, rainy, 40 degree temperature swings, heater on, then AC, changing out of my jeans, then wishing they were still on, pine trees, sand dunes, border fences. And finally, we could see the ocean.

Our friend Loraine was waiting for us at the beach. The sun was shining after the wild pacific storm had washed up all the kelp. It was time to finally take a deep breath and enjoy the roar of the sea.

This is the view out of our penthouse camper overlooking the pacific. I'm writing this listening to the waves pounding beneath us. I think I am going to sleep well tonight....

 

Muneca and Quixote - and we are off

 

After months of getting the truck expedition ready, we are on our way to Baja. Why is it always snowing when we are headed south? To make us appreciate the change? But if the weather is going to be bad, it might as well be on driving days. The forecast over I70 was horrendous, so we opted for the southern route: Denver, Albuquerque, Flagstaff, Yuma, to San Diego. We left a snowstorm in Boulder, past a 104 car pileup in Denver, through dense fog in Southern Colorado, high winds and torrential rain in Santa Fe, dinner in Gallup, New Mexico and finally figured it would be fitting to spend out first night in Winslow, Arizona. Taking it easy. Yes, we are on the road again.