Wednesday, August 23, 2017

The Coast of Brazil

Finally the Atlantic Ocean

Salvador



I made “seafall” on the Atlantic coast of Brazil arriving in the beautiful old city of Salvador in the state of Bahia. This was after an 1800 km diagonal dash across the largest part of the Brazilian landmass. I wish I could say that it was an interesting ride but no it really was not. Eight to nine hours a day in the saddle for 3 1/2 days with temperatures soaring to 37 deg C ( 100 F ) with great waves of heat rising up off the superheated asphalt. I was very pleased to see the ocean. This huge area of Brazil reminded me very much of the South African bushveld without the animals or even many people and being almost completely flat it was difficult to see the horizon making for a pretty boring and tiring few days.

Mimosa thorn trees - first hill in 1800 km

A little town on the way
A lunch stop on the road

Three nights in the incredible city of Salvador rejuvenated me and I loved walking around the old city with its numerous plazas, hundreds of churches and many a sidewalk cafe just begging me to stop and have an ice-cold beer.


Salvador

Salvador

Narrow streets of old town




My pousada ( hostel ) was on this street

Best of friends

State of Bahia governor's residence


Skyline of Salvador
Motorcycle enthusiasts on the ferry


A ferry ride across the bay saved over 250km and allowed me to then follow the coast south with the first stop being at the surfing town of Itacaré. Many good restaurants, with menus that even included excellent salad choices which have been lacking in the central part of the country and certainly completely absent in the Amazon.


Praia da Concha- Itacaré

A local rasta dude


Itacaré

Good surfing ( I am told ) 



Tuesday, August 15, 2017

Trans- Amazon Highway

The  Trans-Amazon  highway stretches it’s dusty way across the width of Brazil. Built in the early 1970’s the road was never really completed and a lot of it still remains unpaved. This is the dry season where the red dust coats everything and everyone.

A hard dusty day on the road


Starting out in the town of Santarem on the Amazon I travelled south until I hit the Transamazonica before heading east for over 1000km to the town of Maraba. 



Puncture after the first 7km!!


The road was a mixture of dirt, potholed asphalt, some sections of good asphalt and scores of little, one lane wooden bridges. The dust behind a large truck was choking and overtaking was a little dangerous to say the least. The dust occasionally was a light tan in color which helped put a different layer on every part of my body. A lot of hard riding but every bit as fun as I had hoped for once there was a chance to open the bike up on the dirt.



Plenty of red dust

Man and his dog

Vultures help clean up the roadkill

A nondescript town on the way

Good section of dirt


 Having been told that highwaymen abound on one section of the road and not to stop for anyone I lost a bolt on my luggage carrier and had to stop for a tense 20 minutes on this lonely section to make repairs.

Ulysses, my French traveling companion

Ferry across a river

Wood bridge



Friday, August 11, 2017

Manaus and east on the Amazon

Manaus a few thousand kilometers from the Atlantic ocean in the middle of the Amazon jungle would probably be the last place you would expect an opera house. However this incredible structure, build in 1896 is the heart of this cultural and commercial center.


Manaus Opera House


Ornate interior

Life in the city

Well preserved building around San Sebastian Square



San Sebastian Square

Palace of Justice

Cool artwork

This guy is in charge of the shipping business

and in trucking

Market


Fish Market

Banana Market

Pineapple market

Even more bananas


Boat ride # 7 for me was a choice between a 2000km ride or another 38 hours on the river. I opted for the river to the town of Santarem.

Luiz Afonso - boat # 7 on the Amazon

A night in a hammock with close friends

Amazon and Negro Rivers as they begin to mix

Along the banks

A stop on the way
A short one hour ride from Santarem on the Tapajós River, a tributary of the Amazon brought me to the scenic resort village of Alter do Chão. With white sands, jungle and sparkling water this little gem of a place boasts that it has the prettiest beaches in Brazil - probably difficult to refute.

Alter do Chão

Downtown

Hostel in the forest


On the river


Overlooking the town