Wrapping up a Wonderful Year

Listing highlights of a year is difficult as every experience is just so different that rankings and ratings seem somehow inadequate for the wonders I have seen, the experiences I have had and the people I have met. 

Well come to think of it this little person that came into the Thompson / Luck family in September has got to rate as the highlight of 2017 for me. Thanks MJ ( Margaret Joy )

Bariloche Cathedral

Being alone for Christmas and not with family was a whole new experience and with more than just a little bit of sadness I started out my day with a service at the cathedral in Bariloche, Argentina. That soon lifted my spirits. 

Bariloche main street

There was only one restaurant open serving breakfast in town so I sat down at a small table and ordered a cup of coffee and a couple of medialuna ( croissants). Finding the last table in the restaurant next to me was a man and a young lady. They started to discuss the menu -- in Afrikaans!!  I am not sure who was the more surprised, me or them when I asked, also in Afrikaans where they were from. Thanks to Frik van Zyl and his daughter, Marelize from De Aar in South Africa I had a fantastic Christmas which continued into the evening with a couple of good bottles of wine.

Lake Traful

A few more lakes and views to knock your socks off in Argentina and it was time to head over the mountains into Chile

Welcome to Chile

Saltos de Petrohué

With stops around Lake Llanquihue, Osorno Volcano and the waterfalls at Petrohué I now am on the island of Chiloé, south and west of Puerto Montt, the gateway to Chilean Patagonia. 

New Years Eve in the town of Castro - seems quite - not sure what I will do - facing a party of one - I have no doubt it will turn into a huge FIESTA

Happy New Year to all  - 2018 here I come

Merry Christmas -- Feliz Navidad

Merry Recycled Bottle Christmas Tree

It is so good to see that Argentina is very environmentally responsible and in general takes recycling seriously. This is the Christmas decorations found in the main square in San Martin de Los Andes and made from recycled soda bottles.

Ruta 40

Ruta 40 is the road stretching the full length of Argentina and holds much of the same nostalgia as Route 66 in the United States. It joined small communities is remote parts of the country, very often being the only link to the outside world. As newer paved roads were built many parts of Ruta 40 were bypassed as were the small villages that for a brief period thrived.

Not much out here

On this lonely 200 km section I only saw one other vehicle, that passed by with a wave and a cloud of dust.

Lago del Diamante beneath Volcan Maipo

Taking a detour into the mountains off Ruta 40 I visited this high Andean lake with the road crossing what at times seemed could not possibly be anywhere but on Mars as the red volcanic terrain seemed other worldly

Had to spend the night in the town of Malargüe after abandoning my ride early the day before due to incredibly strong wind that pelted me with not just sand but small rocks. Patagonia is known for its wind as the region is within the "Roaring Forties". Eager to get on the road the next day I set off early in the morning on a windless, cloudless morning only to get just around the corner when my front tire decided it had undergone enough abuse and need a long rest. Front inner tubes are a lot easier to change that rear ones so I will take that small consolation from the moto gods.

San Martin de Los Andes

Roses in bloom add Holiday cheer

I spent three days in San Carlos which is a bustling tourist town with a small ski area during the winter months. I treated myself to a day on the rivers with a guide in the hope of catching some trophy trout. What a magnificent day even though the trout were few a far between and all four seasons were represented in a matter of 8 short hours. 

The 7 Lakes ( Ruta Seite Lagos ) road from San Martin to Villa Angostura was incredible with mother nature putting on a display that overshadowed any Holiday decorations that man could possibly dream of.

I hope you all have a wonderful Holiday season and that Peace on Earth and Goodwill to All prevails not only in your lives but in the hearts of all mankind.

Life is hard in Mendoza --- NOT!!

All in a days work

These past 10 days have been a welcome change of pace with my brother-in-law, John O'Malley joining me in Mendoza to encourage the sampling of just a little of the local fare.

Malbec aging in oak

These oak barrels were deep in the cellar with Gregorian chant helping them complete there task of creating a Malbec masterpiece

Vineyards of Kaiken Winery

Our little rental car was put through its paces on a high Andes dirt road up to Christ the Redeemer Statue on the border between Argentina and Chile

We just came up that in a tiny Chevy !!

As the road got progressively rougher and rockier we finally relented and turned the low slung Chevy Joy around and headed back down the pass (need a KTM for this one )

The next stop was Mt Aconcagua (6962 m , 22,837 ft ), the highest mountain in the western hemisphere. We only did a short hike in this national park but I am told that this mountain can be climbed along a non-technical route, luckily we were short on time and so did not have to prove our mountaineering skills.

Look at the glacier on the right face

Heading north through the mountains we came to the El Leoncita National park where a high mountain observatory complex is to be found. With the clear air and dark skies the 3 hour outdoor star gazing lecture was something that I will never forget. The research scientist, Carlos was fantastic and although the lecture was in Spanish he would check with John and I that we got what he was talking about and take the time to explain in English if we did not.

Sun aurora behind the Andes

Back down the mountains and north into the dry desert found us at the Tamalpaya National park with it's red sandstone cliffs and deep canyons that reminded me so much of the national parks of Utah. Cars are not allowed to be driven in the park so the option is either all day hikes in the very hot desert environment or the much more leisurely tour truck that stopped along the way to view some of the amazing sights

Light refreshment of wine and olives provided

Petroglyphs

Towering cathedral-like cliffs

The Patagonia Mara is an animal that looks like it was assembled from spare parts. It is a rodent but looks like it has the rear legs from a kangaroo, the body of a small antelope, the head of a big rat and the ears of a fox.

Patagonian Mara 

And then a return south to Mendoza, only to find my best friend, Lomo locked up in jail.

Lomo 

Now time to turn in the rental car and get back on my trusty steed, Moto Naranja

A Day of Adventure Riding

Adventure riding to me is really just another day on the motorbike. The adventure part seems to be how I view the ride and my mental state at the time. So it can be an adventure just going across the city or it could be a ride along a little used mountain road. The latter is what I will try to describe here.

Mendoza to Uspallata

The route looks innocent enough when viewed on a mapping application and it might even be a road with an official designation, like this one - RP13

A road that started out on the western side of the city of Mendoza and wove it’s way through construction material dumps certainly did not feel like any great fun adventure. The first few kilometers were through scrub bush on a hard-packed dirt road with wash outs from recent rain as it headed towards the mountain foothills

 I will just check it out a little further and I can always turn back -- the thought going through my head

When the foothills really started at the beginning of a valley the road started to get a little rougher. 

What if I have a problem with the bike out here?

 A little further and a small farm within a stone walled enclosure appears and I decide to stop in an ask about the state of the road further up the canyon

Frederico

After talking to me for at least 15 minutes. a little of which I understood, Frederico declared that the suspension on the KTM should be up to the task of tackling the road up the pass.

The road from here on changed rapidly and turned into a real adventure.

What if have a problem out here?

I will just check it out a little further — I can always turn back

And then the pass started in earnest with switchback after switchback climbing into the dark clouds roiling up over the top of the mountains

What if have a problem out here?

I will just check it out a little further — I can always turn back

Rockslide

A rockslide that had been partially repaired gives me a little more cause for doubt. Am I am doing a smart thing riding by myself with the tracks of only one vehicle having gone over this road since the last rains, two days before.

There is the top of the switchbacks, maybe I will just go that far and then go back down, especially as those clouds are looking a lot more threatening.

Looking back down the valley

Switchbacks

Wow look what I just road up - exhilarating and a great sense of accomplishment - why did I doubt that I could make it?

Clouds rolling in and getting darker. What if it rains and I can’t go on. Do I have enough warm gear to spend a night out here without my camping gear that is back at the hostel in town.

I ride on ......

What if have a problem out here?

I will just check it out a little further — I can always turn back

Down into the drier western side

An amazing sight as the clouds clear and I see over the other side of the mountains. 

Now you really have to decide because if you go on you have to go the whole way 

What the hell just go for it!!

The drier sandier side of the mountains opened up and riding was easier in many places

Guanaco

What the heck are those animals -- my first Vicuña ( correction Guanaco)

Human habitation appears in the next valley and a farmer waves a friendly greeting when I stop to take photos. 

Heck, now I have no problem going on, this seems almost civilized around here and if I do have a problem I can always go back and ask this guy if I can bed down for the night with his goats.

The road now follows a dry riverbed which is always a challenge when riding a heavy bike ( I had filled both my gas tanks before setting off in the morning ) but I soon get into the swing of powering through the thicker sandy/gravel sections

Riverbed / road

Clouds rolling in again and now having only travelled about 60 kms in nearly three hours without catching sight of another vehicle the doubts start creeping in again — was this a dumb move. 

Hell no!! - you are enjoying ever minute of it !!

The scenery is fantastic and now the road gets easier and before I know it I am riding at 80km/h on a dirt road and hanging the back out on the corners — yeah, now this is really fun

Old mine house

The colors in the rocks were amazing

Damn, those clouds are looking like they are about to let loose with all their fury and me having dodged rain all morning.

The heavens open as the little town of Uspallata appears. Get into that restaurant quickly

and reward yourself with a hearty meal of grilled beef

And the adventure continues …