Guatemala

It is amazing how a random line drawn on a map by some official many years ago can make such profound differences to peoples lives. It almost seems like even the geography then conformed to the difference between either side of what became two countries. My first impressions of Guatemala were how verdant the land is and how colorful the people and the culture are.

The roads deteriorated significantly and the 4 hour ride from the Mexican border  to Santiago on Lake Atitlan was a jolt to the system. The road was a series of potholes stitched together with a little asphalt and the drivers are completely loco. The buses, known as chicken buses ( not sure if they get this name from the livestock being carried on them or because they play “chicken” with oncoming vehicles) are the worst offenders

Chicken Bus retired from US School district

The driver of this one was talking on the phone as we headed down the mountain

I spent 6 nights on this magnificent lake in the towns of Santiago and San Pedro and h visited a couple of other towns such as Panajachel and San Juan. There is a regular ferry (small launches) service connecting all of the towns on the lake. The lake is rimmed by towering, classic cone shaped volcanoes which are often lost in the mists that swirl around.

I hiked up one volcano above the village of San Juan by the name of Indian Nose. The hike took about two hours up and as I was too cheap to take a guide I got a little lost but enjoyed every minute of the walk as the path wound through coffee plantations under the shade trees on the lower slopes. The rich, dark volcanic soil gives life to plants and crops in abundance.

One of the problems I have had with my motorcycle is that I was carrying just too much weight making handling extremely difficult on a dirt road and in tight places at slow speeds so I have hand a radical rethink of the gear I need to carry. From all accounts throughout Central and South America cheap hotels are abundant and the need for camping gear will be rare from this point on. So I have sent home a box containing, tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag and all sorts of other “stuff” - feeling a little vulnerable as even the number of pairs of underpants has been drastically cut.

Next part of the tour de Guatemala was a 4 hours ride around the lake, through many smalls villages and over a few mountain passes to the old colonial capital of Antigua. Antigua was founded in the early 16th century but finally after 200 years of being repeatedly destroyed by numerous earthquakes, fire and flood the capital was moved to what is today Guatemala City, just about 30km or an hour by chicken bus away.

Antigua is a UNESCO world heritage site and the town in kept immaculately with no modern signage allowed and the cobblestone streets maintained to look like the originals. There are a boatload of churches and ruins to see all within walking distance and with a restaurant or coffee shop on almost every corner it is a delight to spend the day wandering the streets. 

Santa Catalina Arch

Fuente de las Sirenas

El Carmen church

Nearly every house and restaurant has a courtyard

Ruins of original Cathedral of Antigua

El Perro

My bike needed a final drive seal replaced and a local mechanic fitted it for me ( luckily I was carrying a spare) for the about $15. Actually he only wanted $10 but saving me having grease up to my ears I was very willing to pay him a little more

Henry Garcia

The Fuego volcano has been rumbling all night and even through the clouds flame and smoke could be seen spewing from the top of the impressive cone. My camera just does not have a large enough lens to do justice to the sight so sorry no photos to show.

I will be heading towards Honduras and the Copán Mayan ruins within the next couple of days. Guatemala is definitely a country I would visit again and Antigua in particular warrants a few weeks to explore just a small part of it.

Imposters!

Muñeca

Por Que No  - Why not