Leaving Antigua in Guatemala I spent the day traveling through many small, out of the way, villages on a route suggested to me by a local motorcycle tour adventure company. In one small town it was market day and the central plaza was packed with a throng of people selling their wares all wearing colorful traditional dress. It was such mayhem and I needed to ride right through the middle of it. I only wish that I was able to stop and take a photo this remarkable gathering but with cars, busses, tuk tuks, people and horses all moving slowly forward there just was not place to pull over.
The border crossing at El Florido was painless and easy with very welcoming officials on the Honduran side. All that was needed was to present passport, driver’s license and motorcycle title, with two copies of both and I was in. I did not need to buy any insurance at all. A relatively small fee needed to be paid for the temporary importation of a vehicle, paid in the local currency, the Lempira. ( Approx $1 = L23)
My main reason for wanting to come through this border was that the Mayan ruins of Copán are only a short distance into the country. Having read about this remarkable place a few years ago it has been on my list of “must see” sights on this trip
Copan |
I have found that it is well worth the price of a guide to really grasp the history and culture of some of these ancient sites. This was the most southern city of the Mayan world which stretched up in to the Yucatan peninsular in Mexico. There was no centralized power but there was certainly contact between the cities such as Tikal ( Guatemala), Chichen Iza ( Mexico), and Tulum (Mexico). Copán was founded sometime in the 5th century and was occupied for about 400 years.
Copan Ruins |
I met up with a great young guy, Alex Paredes, who showed my around the town and gave me a wonderful insight into this thriving little community as well as giving me a two day Spanish lesson.
When I first arrived in the town I ended up at the Marebella Hotel where the owner, Carlos immediately cornered me and insisted on playing me chess. I got my clock cleaned in two straight games, all within the matter of about 20 minutes.
Carlos |
I was also lucky enough to meet a retired Honduran doctor who now owns two hotels in Copán. Gustavo Correlas is an incredibly energetic retired Gyny/Onc who practiced for many years in the capital Tegulcigalpa. Being a motorbike guy he was kind enough to put me up for a night, free of charge, at the best hotel in town. It was a real pleasure to spend a day relaxing around a swimming pool and having all the trappings of luxury in the Hotel Ciudad Blanca.
Replica Mayan sculpture |
Next stop was Lake Yoja with a magnificent drive on what was shown on my paper map and on Google as a major road - not!!
Un hombre y su caballo |
By the time I arrived, hot and tired from riding all day I turned into the first lodge I saw and found a great little cabin on the lake at Cortijo del Lago Lodge. Turned out to be owned by a retired guy originally from Vermont. He then told me about a little mountain community of Cedra close by where there was a guide who would be able to take me up Santa Barbara mountain to do some bird watching. Leonel just happened to be the same guide who I was trying to find and had been given his name and phone number a couple of days before. Not only that but Leonel’s son worked at the lodge and had cooked me just about the best fish dish I have ever eaten. Talapia caught an hour before in the lake, wrapped in what I think was a type of spinach and covered with a mango salsa
In search of the elusive Quetzal. Certainly heard a lot of them. Walking up the mountain behind the guide, slipping and sliding with my glasses foggy over and feeling like a complete novice I had a little more appreciation for the flatlands who come to Colorado to hike Rocky Mountain National Park.
On the way down the mountain we stopped at Leonel’s house and I was invited to stay the night. With the family all sitting in the outside kitchen, fireflies lighting up the forest and a nearly full moon coming up over the lake below made for a magical and unforgettable night.
A man and his horse |
Nicaragua next and the border at Los Manos
Looks great Richard! Cannot wait to read more about your wonderful trip!
ReplyDeleteBest of luck,
Matthijs
Great stuff Richard. Amazing stuff you are seeing and experiencing!
ReplyDeleteKeep the updates coming.
Ewen